Off Again

Well, my time here is through. Time to get back on the road, northward HO!

Livermore, CA

I'm at my aunt and uncle's house nursing my sunburn, which is now all gross, painful and blistery. Plus, it's on my foot, in part, so I basically can't do anything. Apart from that, things are all good.

Yesterday on my way here I stopped in Placerville, CA, which is a cute little town not far from Eldorado National Forest. I stopped for chai and a muffin (carrot zucchini!). I was hoping to have lunch there because John and Derrick, the kayakers, had recommended a Mexican joint there to me, but the timing was not right. Then I drove some more on the exciting California freeway system. It's so fun compared to the deserted two-way highways of Nevada, Idaho, Wyoming... My next stop was UC at Davis. Eh, blah. No warm and fuzzy feeling there. Just hot. I haven't experienced temperatures like this (upper 90s) for YEARS. Oh sweet mountain temperatures. Anyway, the best part about Davis was that everyone bikes everywhere; the roads are pretty much filled with bikers. The worst part might be that it is finals week RIGHT NOW! I know that as a graduate student my schedule would be pretty much year-round anyway, but finals now? They obviously don't care about people. (I wonder when they start.) I overheard this great tidbit as I strolled around:
(group of 3 prof-like guys)
Professorial guy 1 in teacher-like tone: That was a very good question.
Professorial guy 2: Yes... That was a rhetorical question, wasn't it?

So, I got out of there after a little while and drove in even more, more exciting traffic on my way to Livermore. I was a bit early (should have stuck around in Placerville for lunch) so I stopped and caught a movie. Madagascar, not too good. Oh well. It got out at five so I chilled out in a traffic jam for a little while, rocking out to the Femmes and having a good time in general. I think I'm the only person on Earth who has so much fun in traffic jams. After some time (enough to field a brief phone call from Dad and listen to the Femmes' Add It Up album Intro through 36-24-36), I made it to my aunt and uncle's (after some difficulty getting through the gate).

Yay! So, I get to see everyone, eat real food, chill out and play cards! Oh and do laundry!

and I bought the new White Stripes album: glory

Lake Tahoe

Sunday, June 12: Lake Tahoe, CA

Well now I’m in California, a state I didn’t think I would have time to make it to. Yesterday, I drove from Winnemucca here without much event. I stopped in Reno, which is like mini-Vegas, to buy CDs (needed to liven up the music collection) and check out the Sierra Trading Post Outlet. While trying to get back on the highway, I drove down what I think is the main drag (tourist-wise) and saw the “biggest little city” sign. Pretty cool. From there, I drove though Carson City. The best thing I saw there was a road sign, an actual official road sign, that said: marriage licenses -->. The arrow pointed down some road. Turn here to get married! Nevada is a weird state. Next, I went through South Lake Tahoe, which I would describe as Traverse City, MI with casinos. I saw gas for sale for $2.63 and I stopped for ice cream at a place called Snowflake’s. It was just okay unfortunately.
I camped in a National Forest campground west of Lake Tahoe, but not before I looked for non-established campsites and tested Zeus out on some less-than-pristine roads. The clearance and all wheel drive are just wonderful.
At the campground I met a couple of guys, John and Derrick, from the Sacramento area out here for some kayaking. We talked for a while. They fed me fried bananas with rum (mmm). We had tea. Then they invited me to go kayaking with them. Yay! Of course, I accepted the offer.
So, today I went kayaking on this amazing pair of lakes (see pictures). The water was like glass, and it was just beautiful. Once we reached the other side, we got out and went for a little hike. We lost the trail in snow but ended up finding a great lookout point with a view of Lake Tahoe and some of the surrounding mountains. It was a great spot, perfect day, etc. The only downfall was that I did the hike in sandals (remember I said we got ‘lost’ in the snow), but Derrick was in sandal solidarity with me so it wasn’t so bad. We found our way back to the kayaks without much trouble, paddled back, and they brought me back to camp. I ate a bagel and took a nap. What an ideal day! The drawback: sunburned feet and legs. Ouch!

Zeus

Here's the story of me buying a new car. First, I spent loads of time online figuring out what I wanted and where the dealership is. The next day, I drove back to Boise from Nampa, the location of my hotel. Then I drove around Boise for a while trying to find the dealership until I got hungry and was starting to get frustrated. I went to the grocery store to fix both problems. In the parking lot, I noticed a car with a license plate ringer from the dealership with the driver sitting in it. I couldn't pass that opportunity by because of some hunger; I walked up to the woman and asked her how to get to the dealership and headed on my way.
When I stepped out of my car onto the Subaru lot, the salesman was right there and said, "It looks to me like you need an Outback." Whoa. This guy is good. He asked what color I wanted. I said black. There was the car and we took him for a spin. The car and the experience in general was so much better than they were back in Idaho Falls. When we got back to the lot, I did all the important stuff: sat in the back seat, crawled around in the back, and tested to be sure I could sleep in the back. This was my car. We struck our deal.
Then, Aaron, my salesman, took me downtown for dinner at a Thai place. It was SOOO good. I had fish on fire. Yes, one of those things that they light on fire at the table right in front of your face. Sweet! Then we went to REI and got the necessary goods for transferring the bike rack from Connie to Zeus. That's right, my new car's name is Zeus. Aaron helped me install it, which saved me $25 worth of installation fees.
Then it was time for the hard part: transferring all my stuff from one car to the other. Wow. Connie had a lot of cargo space. I had doubts about whether I could fit everything, but I did (even though I could not see out the back). Whew! That was tough.

That night I drove up into the national forest to camp. The skies were clear and I camped out without the rainfly on so I could see all the stars. Amazing, and I wasn't even cold. When I woke up this morning I repacked and was able to see out the back sans probleme. Now I'm in Winnemucca, NV on my way to visit my aunt/uncle/cousins in Livermore, CA.

!NEW CAR!

Go look at the picture of me with my new car!

Long time no internet

A lot has happened since I last wrote.

I was in the backcountry!

But first... I was walking down the road when I saw a fairly large black bear run across. I didn't see where he went so I turned around and got a ride instead of chancing it with the bear.

Kathryn and I did a short backpacking trip in the southern Windriver Range, starting out in Lander, WY. On our hike in we were, unfortunately, on a trail that had been turned into an ATV route. We even saw a number of ATVers. It was depressing even though they had forged a path through the deep snow. We got cold and wet, and those things don't go together very happily, as you know. Nothing I wasn't expecting, but the Winds are different from the Rockies that Kathryn knows best. On our first day we passed Pete's Lake (For Pete's Lake!) and ended up at Twin Lakes, of which there are three. Hmm....? The tent was on a little snow. I smelled like mildew for some reason. It wasn't the greatest night, but I did actually sleep a little bit. The next day we did a little off trail business. There were great views and we didn't have any navigating trouble. We descended a little and got out of the snow to find one of the most posh campsites of all time. There was a big rock in the sun for napping and reading. The tent site was flat and protected by some tress. The bear bag went up without much trouble. It was rad. The next day we felt like hiking out, so we did. One highlight of the day was Popo Agie Falls. It is absolutely amazing, maybe the best falls I've seen. I would recommend the hike to anyone in the area. The other highlight was a hail/lightning storm during which we had to crouch down in lightning position (uncomfortable) for a while which getting soaked by rain and hail. Excitement. We had almost made it out before the storm hit. So close. That night we camped in Vydette (Kat's truck) next to a resevoir in Shoshone NF.

In the morning we had coffee (chai for me) at The Magpie, which is a great coffee joint in downtown Lander. We chilled there for a while playing chess and Scrabble before we split. She headed south toward Boulder I headed west toward Boise.

On my way west I found myself back in Jackson Hole, but I saw something new: The National Museum of Wildlife Art. It is mostly paintings and sculptures. Amazing. Almost moved to tears by two different pieces. It was worth the $8 admission without question. It's another stop I would recommend to a fellow traveler. Also on the way I stopped in Idaho Falls (also my second time through) because I saw some used Subarus on a Ford lot. I gave one a test drive, but I felt strange because I hadn't had a chance to do a lot of research on Subies yet. At the dealers they like to throw you right into the car for a test drive. I figured it couldn't hurt. I couldn't get a feel for it because I was focusing all my energy on not getting too annoyed by the saleswoman, who I did not care for. I drove through Arco, ID, the first city to be "lit by nuclear power." There must have been a lot of energy left over 'cause this is a tiny little town. Oh well. I finally ended up camping at Craters of the Moon National Monument.

After a cold night we find ourselves at today. Whew! I started the morning by exploring Craters while letting the frost melt off my tent. I didn't know about this place! I just saw it on the map and thought I'd have a go. It's pretty sweet even though the lava is flowing no more. The best parts were looking down into the crater of an old volcano and walking through Indian Cave. The caves are formed where there used to be underground lava (magma?) rivers. Awesome! There are a bunch of them but I only went through one. I was the only one there and I've gotta say that it was a little freaky. Luckily no cave-ins.

Right now I'm at the Days Inn in Nampa, ID, a Boise suburb. The Boise hotels are full today. It's Wednesday so I think that's strange. I'm excited because I think that Wednesday is South Park on Comedy Central. Also I will have heating and a bed. Oh luxury! I'm not sure what the plan is from here,, but I think I'll be car shopping tomorrow.

*check out picture updates*

Jackson, WY

Thursday, June 2, 8:47pm: Bridger-Teton NF (WY)

All my bad luck came out yesterday. Ooh – stress.
1) I had been staying in Salmon, ID for quite some time so I had to reorganize the car before I left. You know, take most stuff out and put it back in nicely. No big deal; I’ve done it a couple times now. Rain. (Wet tent packing, too.)
2) Driving along doing the normal thing, stop somewhere. The starting issue with the car is not solved. Probably the fuel pump is bad = expensive to repair. Oh well, nothing to do about it.
3) Stop for gas in Idaho Falls, ID. Get caught in hailstorm. Of course, I’m at one of those old stations with no awning. Freak out about my baby, the road bike. I’m helpless and can to nothing but worry and wait for the storm to pass.
4) I’m driving east, so I get to go through the storm again. Resignation.
5) Construction on road to Jackson, WY. Tire kicks up loose rock. Rock breaks rusted exhaust pipe in half before the muffler.
6) Drive remaining ~15 miles to Jackson (expensive resort town) to have it fixed. Car is ungodly loud and vibrates like crazy all the way there.
7) Mechanic informs me that the muffler has a whole in it; the whole exhaust system will have to be replaced soon. By the way, that fuel pump is more urgent.
8) Frustration.
In the end, I did find a good campsite (my current locale). I think I’m going to have to replace the car. I’m hoping the fuel pump will hold out until Boise.

Today was a vast improvement. I decided to stay warm(ish) in my sleeping bag and read in the morning for a little while. Then, I went to the campground host to ask for advice on a good hike. Went hiking along Granite Creek and saw a huge system of beaver dams (no beavers), a waterfall, a hot spring (turned into a public pool), and much scenery (see pics). Overall, a good hike. I sang and talked to myself the whole time because I don’t have a bear bell. That was tiring, but funny. (You were right about the bell, Mom.) From the trailhead, I started toward Jackson, realized my trunk wasn’t latched, retraced my drive to be sure I didn’t lose anything (phew!), and started back toward Jackson Hole, feeling dumb.
Jackson Hole is sort of a resort town/tourist trap/fancy ski resort place. I’m not into it. I mean, they have Eddie Bauer, Gap, Coldwater Creek etc. mixed amoungst the other shops on the main street. By some stroke of fate (it looked good), I stopped in the most non-Jackson Hole coffee shop imaginable for my chai. There was a sign on the door warning you not to disturb the dog. There weren’t any free tables because the owner and his two friends were playing some game at the only one. One of the friends has dreads down past his tush. It was basically a little shack somehow left standing on the main drag. The guy was nice, told me I should stay in Jackson since I don’t have a set destination, and made one of the best chai lattes I’ve ever had in my life. I would go back in the morning if it weren’t a sizable detour.
This reminds me, everywhere I’ve been (long enough to have a brief conversation) in WY, MT and ID someone has told me I should stay in that town. People either like me, like their towns, or are just welcoming in general. All seem like good things. I know there are other options as well, but... In Salmon, lots of people said I should stay. Joann Beers suggested it, telling me about another girl with a story like mine who did. The women who made my chai both times I went in. The woman who worked at the rafting outfitters. The guy whose kids I was playing with at the mechanic’s. I really liked it there. Everyone was great. The only person who thought I shouldn’t stay there was Skinner; he wanted me to go live in HIS home, Anchorage.